Thursday, May 6, 2010

"When a Finn talks to you in an elevator ...

"When a Finn talks to you in an elevator, either it is spring (and they can't contain themselves) or they are drunk."

So says my hairdresser, and I think he is right. Someone spoke to me in the elevator in our building last week and I was so shocked I almost didn't know how to respond. Then I realized the man was Chinese and staying in a University apartment like us. I guess no one told him about Finnish elevator etiquette.

He told me another joke, too. This one is about the Finnish Easter delicacy of Mammi, a mushy-textured thing made of rye malt and rye flour (my conclusion on tasting it was that one would have to like beer to consider liking mammi. I am not a fan of beer, nor mammi.). Anyway, here's the joke that my hairdresser's children say about mammi and other dark Finnish food: People think Finns are so poor that we have to eat our food twice! (Here's a nice post by another blogger if you want to read more about mammi: http://arcticrainbow.blogspot.com/2010/04/sacred-mammi-finnish-easter-food.html)

So now we know that scatological jokes are funny in other cultures, too.

While he was on a roll of self-deprecating Finnish humor my hairdresser also told me about how older Finns are very interested (concerned?) to know what foreigners think of Finland. "And they don't what to hear about the cold, the dark, and the silent people, either!" I really had to laugh about this because I have been asked twice in almost identical words What do you like most about Finland?

The question confounds me because the words "like" and "Finland" don't usually occur in my head at the same time. OK, that is an exaggeration. There are lots of little things I like about Finland - the toilets are all duel flush, the hot water in the shower is instant, the sauna's are great - but I suspect they are expecting larger answers, something more like "I love the architecture, the weather, the food, the people." Or at least they might expect ONE of those things. But truly, none of these come to the top of my 'like' list, some of them I downright 'dis-like'.

Mostly, being here is interesting.

It is interesting to live without a car and it is great that this is a pretty easy city for doing that (and that LOTS of people do that).
Experimenting with new foods is interesting but I am getting tired of having such a sparsely equipped kitchen for said experiments.
It is interesting to be the foreigner, to feel lost and confused and amused by so many things, to notice how much mental energy it takes to take care of the basic details of our lives, to imagine what it is like to be a foreigner in the US.

But like????

About Jyvaskyla one of Charles' colleagues says "It's a great place to live, but I wouldn't want to visit here!" We sort of live here and are sort of visitors, which just may be the worst situation.

This all sounds much more morose than I feel right now. Today is warm (mid 40's) and sunny, tonight I am singing with the Lutherans and this weekend we have a birthday party to go to. Today I feel connected. But those other thoughts above weave in and out of my days here so I decided to give them a little space to come out.

Much more than the "What do you like about Finland" question, I really like the question a friend asked me this weekend: What will you be taking away with you from your time in Finland? I don't think I'll be able to really answer that until we've been home for a while. More than anything, I have probably learned a lot about myself. Being here has been hard in many ways, but I am glad we did it. I just might even want to try it again for Charles' next sabbatical.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Vappu and other spring things

May 1st is Vappu here in Finland, the festival of May Day. According to the newspapers, Vappu is the biggest holiday in Finland. It starts Friday evening with lots of parties, sweets and alcohol and continues throughout Saturday with picnicking and lots of Certainly one can understand that after the loooong winter, the arrival of spring is worthy of great celebration.

Our Vappu celebration started on Friday with a party at Kalee's play-school. All the kids dressed up (just like Halloween) and parents brought sweet foods to eat. Our costume options were a bit limited since I have no sewing machine here. Kalee went as a pot of flowers: brown clothes for the pot, flowers we made from felt, pipe cleaners and buttons around her neck.

In the afternoon we walked through downtown. All the restaurants had their tables outside, tents full of candy, crafts, and foods lined the pedestrian street, and Mylar balloons were for sale for 10-15 euros each (!?!) Crazy expensive for truly ordinary balloons. Kalee understood why we didn't buy one. Her comment was, "I thought that since they want everyone to have fun today they wouldn't make things so expensive." I love her innocence.

At home we blew up balloons and decorated them.

Saturday our friends Jo and Vessa (and kids) invited us to their "Mokki," (cottage). It is only a half-hour away so it is easy to spend the afternoon there. We started with a hike along a river (are those children or garden gnomes?)and saw evidence of LOTS of beaver activity.The area around the river was made up of at least two layers of very large boulders, covered with heavy layers of moss and lichens, birch and pine trees growing up where possible and lots of places for feet to find deep holes for things to live in (and feet to get stuck it). I felt like I was walking on another planet. From the road the landscape of gently rolling hills, forests of pine and birch surrounding plentiful lakes reminds me of northern Minnesota. But the forest floor ... it is a whole different thing: spongy to walk on, a riot of texture and color from all the mosses, lichens and berries.Oh, I haven't mentioned berries yet, have I. I finally understand about everyone (I mean everyone) going berry picking. You literally cannot walk around in the forest without treading on the berry bushes. Mostly it is lingonberries (the low-bush cranberry Nordic countries are known for) that are underfoot (here is a borrowed image of a lingonberry bush). There are also blueberries, wild strawberries, and lots of juniper (the stuff in gin). Charles tasted one of the juniper berries and confirmed it has that gin-ish taste.

The kids sorted all the treasures they collected on our walkand had a snack.

Later they dug worms and did a little ice fishing (didn't catch anything), we all ate a fabulous meal, and Vessa fired up the sauna for us.

The day vacillated between sun and rain all day, which brought us the most vivid rainbow I've ever seen.
The highlight of the day for Kalee was the balloon hunt. Vessa hid balloons, the kids found them, then Vessa and Charles took turns shooting them with the air-gun.
All in all it was a lovely day. The girls had so much fun together. These are friends we will miss when we go home.